Spring has sprung in the Netherlands and the tulip fields are blooming! Despite my many trips to the Netherlands before moving here, I had never actually seen the tulips fields in bloom. So I recently took the opportunity to visit the Keukenhof to enjoy the tulips up close. It’s worth noting that the Keukenhof is only open two months of the year – this year the dates are March 22 to May 20.
The Keukenhof is the world’s largest flower garden – 32 hectares (79 acres) and is located in Lisse, between Leiden and the Hague. In Dutch, “Keukenhof” means “kitchen garden,” and it was so named because the garden originally provided herbs to the kitchen of the Keukenhof Castle. What a change from those times – now there are approximately 7 million flower bulbs planted every year in the Keukenhof, and 4.5 million of those are tulips – over 100 varieties! Tulips are my favorite flower, so I was dazzled by the varieties from nearly black tulips called “Blackjack” and “Cuban Nights” to the unusual-shaped “Yellow Crown” and sweet pink and white striped “All that Jazz.” Loved all those creative and clever names for the same reason I like to see the names of boats and racehorses 
Like most places in the Netherlands, it’s an easy day trip from Amsterdam. I think it’s easiest to drive, but you can also take a train to Schiphol and then take a special bus from the airport to the Keukenhof. If the weather’s nice, you can take a train part of the way and then rent bikes for the rest of the way. The weather was cold and chilly the day I went, so luckily I was able to travel by car. However, the gray skies didn’t dampen my excitement of seeing field after field of tulips in all colors as I drove into the town of Lisse and made my way to the Keukenhof.
Inside the Keukenhof, there are acres upon acres of formal flower gardens, charming little paths and bridges over water features, gazebos and pergolas and arches. There are also several large pavilions, each dedicated to a special type of flower. The largest pavilion, Willem-Alexander had a huge display of tulips in all shapes, sizes, and colors. Other pavilions are smaller and have displays of orchids, roses, and other flowers. The prettiest displays are outside, of course, but the pavilions are nice for seeing many different varieties of flowers, as well as getting out of the cold for a few minutes.
The small historic walled garden was charming and I can only imagine how beautiful it must be later in the spring when everything is in bloom. The Keukenhof is surrounded by fields of tulips which you can also see by standing at the edge of the garden and looking across a small canal.
The Keukenhof is dog-friendly and very child-friendly, with several playgrounds and jungle gyms, even a petting zoo. You can get your fill of all the Dutch stereotypes in one place: besides the ubiquitous tulips, the Keukenhof has a windmill and canals and lots of little stands selling hot drinks and sweets and dubious-looking meat products, and the requisite souvenir shops selling wooden shoes made (both the authentic wooden kind as well as the furry slipper version). It was a bit commercial, but I must admit I really appreciated having a cup of tea to warm me on my walk through the garden!
And if like me, you prefer a quieter garden experience, this is also easy to find away from the vendors and playgrounds. I had such a lovely time wandering among the flowers and planning my own dream garden. I am already planning to return towards the middle of May (before the closing on May 20) to see the different flowers in bloom.
Hi Heather, I didn’t go to the Keukenhof until last year when my parents in law really wanted to see it – and I’m Dutch! I must say I was pleasantly surprised. We did go on a ‘quiet day’, so that helped. Although I’m not a fan of formal gardens partularly, I do love flowers and it was interesting to see so many varieties in one place. I’d love to go to one of the big flower auctions too one day.
Ursula, how funny! My Dutch husband has also never been to the Keukenhof, despite being a great fan of gardens. I’m going to try to go back with him before it closes this year. The flower auctions are great too! I went to the one at Aaslmeer – it’s great fun although it means a very early morning! http://www.floraholland.com/en/AboutFloraHolland/Visittheauction/Pages/VisitAalsmeer.aspx
Heather, there’s definitely something wrong with your comments section.
It won’t display that I put in my name, email and website details.
I can see that it will display my comment even without it.
Ok, so Keukenhof looks really interesting and although I’m sure it’s touristy, your photos don’t show that. I’m sure I have driven past it once but that’s many years ago so don’t remember…I love the moody pictures you’ve displayed. It makes it look rather romantic and idyllic.
Thank you for sharing your trip with us….
BTW, my cousin is running the Amsterdam Marathon on 12 October so I will come to support her. Last year it was in Rome and I went. Such awful places she chooses:)
Hi Tina, I can’t see what the problem is with the comments, but I’m still looking into it. Thanks for letting me know. The Keukenhof is definitely touristy but I was lucky to find a few quiet places – it was a weekday so that was probably in my favor as well. But even with the crowds and cheesy souvenirs, it’s still gorgeous and I am going to try to make it back there before it closes. Great news that you are coming to Amsterdam – we must meet up!
Wow! Those gardens look beautiful! Sounds like a great day. Hopefully I can visit Amsterdam again sometime when the tulips are in bloom.
Thanks Faith! It’s definitely worth a visit this time of year